Kurbis socks pair a warm two-color palette with geometric stranded colorwork, knitted from the cuff down in fingering-weight sock wool. In this guide you will work a ribbed cuff, a patterned leg (Chart A), a broken-rib knit-purl texture, the heel, the foot, a second motif (Chart B) and the toe, with gauge and stitch counts at every stage.
The pattern leaves the heel and toe construction to you, so this guide shows where each section begins and lets you use the method you prefer.
- Yarn: 4-ply / fingering-weight sock wool, approximately 400–420 m per 100 g
- Needles: 2.5–3.0 mm, or the size needed to obtain gauge
- Gauge: 36 stitches and 42 rounds = 10 × 10 cm, blocked, over the colorwork
- Cast-on: 48 (60) 72 stitches, or any multiple of 12
- Skill level: a confident beginner or intermediate knitter
Materials, Gauge and Abbreviations
Use any 4-ply or fingering-weight sock wool, approximately 400–420 meters per 100 g. Choose a main color (MC) and at least one solid contrasting color (CC). The photographs use white and orange as the two main shades.
- Needles: 2.5–3.0 mm, or the size needed to obtain gauge, using your preferred method for knitting in the round.
- Gauge: 36 stitches and 42 rounds = 10 × 10 cm, blocked, over the colorwork section.
- Useful tools: stitch markers, a tapestry needle and scissors.
Abbreviations
- C: color
- CC: contrast color
- CO: cast on
- k: knit
- MC: main color
- p: purl
Important Notes Before You Start
- Check your gauge. The stated 36 stitches and 42 rounds per 10 cm are measured blocked over the colorwork. A different gauge changes the finished circumference and length.
- Choose a size carefully. The pattern gives 48 (60) 72 stitches but no finished circumference measurements, so compare your blocked gauge with your foot measurements before you choose.
- Heel and toe are flexible. Both are left to the knitter’s preferred construction.
- Keep your colorwork tension relaxed. Spread the stitches on the needle as you carry the floats, so the fabric does not pucker.
1. Knit the Cuff
With MC, cast on 48 (60) 72 stitches using the long-tail cast-on or your preferred method. The stitch count can be any multiple of 12. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist the stitches. Place a marker for the beginning of the round and divide the stitches evenly between your needles.
Work the ribbing as *k2, p1*, repeating from * to * around. Continue for 10–16 rounds, depending on the cuff length you prefer, then knit one round with MC.
2. Work the Leg and Colorwork Chart A
Join the CC and begin the colorwork chart at Row 1. Work until Chart A is complete. Keep the floats relaxed on the wrong side so the sock stays comfortable and the colorwork does not pull in.
Chart A
Use the chart below for the exact color placement. Its legend identifies orange as MC and white as CC.
Continue with the Knit-Purl Texture
When Chart A is complete, cut the CC, knit two rounds with MC and begin the broken-rib knit-purl chart. Work as many repeats as you like before you start the heel.
Knit-Purl Chart and Key
A small chart shows the knit-and-purl repeat. Follow the key exactly: the blank square is knit and the marked square is purl. The same image also shows Chart B, which you will use near the toe.
3. Shape the Heel
The heel is worked on the second half of the round: 24 (30) 36 stitches. Leave the first 24 (30) 36 stitches waiting for the upper part of the sock, then work the heel over the remaining stitches.
You can use any heel construction you prefer. Once your chosen heel is complete, reposition the beginning-of-round marker to the center of the sole.
4. Knit the Foot and Begin Chart B
Depending on the heel construction you chose, work the gusset and decreases gradually, or go straight on to the foot. Continue the broken-rib knit-purl chart on the upper part of the sock.
Knit until the foot measures approximately 4 cm less than your desired total length, then begin the colorwork in Chart B.
5. Finish the Toe
Knit the toe using your preferred construction, choosing a method that suits your fit, stitch count and knitting style. Fasten off securely and weave in the ends on the wrong side.
Final Result
Once the cuff, leg colorwork, knit-purl texture, heel, foot, Chart B and toe are complete, block the socks gently according to the yarn label and check the fit.
Kurbis socks reward careful gauge-checking and relaxed floats. Swatch first, choose the stitch count that suits your foot, and finish the heel and toe in the way you like best.
Kurbis Socks FAQ
What yarn is suitable for Kurbis socks?
Use 4-ply or fingering-weight sock wool, approximately 400–420 meters per 100 g, in a main color and a solid contrast color.
What is the gauge for this colorwork sock pattern?
The blocked gauge is 36 stitches and 42 rounds over 10 × 10 cm in the colorwork section. Always swatch before you choose a size.
How many stitches do I cast on?
Cast on 48, 60 or 72 stitches, or another multiple of 12 that suits your gauge and foot circumference.
How long should the cuff ribbing be?
Work the k2, p1 ribbing for 10–16 rounds, depending on the cuff length you prefer, then knit one round with MC.
What do MC and CC mean?
MC is the main color and CC is the contrast color. In Chart A, orange is MC and white is CC.
Does the pattern specify a heel and toe method?
No. Heel and toe construction is left to your preferred method, so this guide explains where each section begins.
Are the Kurbis socks suitable for beginners?
They are best for a confident beginner or intermediate knitter who is comfortable knitting in the round, reading a colorwork chart and checking gauge.
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